Paris Guide, Pt. 1

Restaurants + wine bars + bakeries + cafés

In 2005, fearing a second Bush administration (and unable to buy even a closet on a New York editor’s salary), I managed to buy a tiny apartment in then-affordable Paris — this French major’s lifelong dream. During my too-short visits over the decades, I’ve eaten and browsed my way through every arrondissement thanks to recommendations from friends with great taste and research for assignments. Today, I’m sharing the first part of the list that I send to friends — the food! — with shopping, art and hotels to come.  

In the coming weeks, I’ll also share the favorite spots of the locals I trust most, from the co-director of Le Fooding to the Astier de Villatte boys, baker and entrepreneur Apollonia Poilâne to cookbook author Rebekah Peppler, who happens to enjoy my balcony when I’m not there. (World’s best renter!)

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Oh, and those subscribers curious to know the secret oddball restaurant that I love so much, it’s in my will (no funeral; just lunch here, please), DM me for the address. It’s not for everyone!

RESTAURANTS

These are the places I keep going back to, and friends are always happy to be sent to. The list is neither exhaustive nor up to the minute — there are great resources for that. (Download Le Fooding’s app!) Just the edit, with more discoveries added as I find them. You might note that there are no tasting-menu places here. That’s because I can’t sit still for them anymore. That said, if I try one that’s worth the hundreds of euros in the next year, I’ll add it here.